The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino from Poggio Nardone offers up smoke, tar, earthiness, leather and dark fruit on a medium to full-bodied frame. The wine reveals good depth, but comes across as somewhat disjointed and rough around the edges, both qualities that did not improve with air. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2014. Various American importers, including: DB Cellars/LAG Imports Llc., New York, NY; tel. (718) 620-6800; Nardone Wine Llc, St. Kent, WA; tel. (253) 395-4285

Orange peel and Maraschino cherry nose with notes of leather. Succulent, multi-layered fruit and persistent, coating tannins. Great length.