The Clair 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.-Jacques offers the aromatic complexity one has come to expect from this great site in this great vintage: black cherry, cassis, iris, peat, bitter herbs, and roasted meat are all on display. Juicy, dynamic and expansive on the palate, it generates a whirl of black fruits, flowers and bitter-sweet herbs over a low-toned rumbling of stones and deep meaty depth. Athletically energetic and lean like all of the best Clair wines, it displays tenacious grip and finishing intensity. Don’t even think about revisiting a bottle for 5-7 years.
Bruno Clair and his long-time cellar master Philippe Brun persist in rendering Pinots of uncompromising structure and fruit acid retention that are by no means long on youthful charm. Their 2005 collection was all still in barrel, from which I did selected tasting rather than (with one already assembled exception) tasting an at all precise reflection of the final blend. A small percentage of whole clusters was employed on the Gevrey crus, rising to 20% in the Clos de Beze. Brun decides whether or not to filter based on the character of the vintage and the result of trials. In 2005, he won’t. A couple of the Marsannays here were showing a rather awkward alternation between bright fresh fruit acidity and caramelized faintly wood tones, but admittedly, with larger cuvees, that is a tricky thing to judge prior to assemblange.
Also recommended: 2005 Marsannay Vaudenelles ($32.00; 85-87+?), 2005 Marsannay Grasse Tetes ($39.00; 85-87+?). Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802
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