Richter’s “two-star” 2009 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese** displays pronounced softness relative to most his vintage collection, and its scents and flavors of musk melon, pineapple, and peach border on the over-ripe. A prickle from botrytis as well as bitter impingements of fruit skin help offer some counterpoint in lieu of bright acidity. But the finish here persists with both musky and slightly diffuse flavors. I would be inclined not to risk cellaring this for long, although there is a certain undeniable, decadent satisfaction to be derived for now. While yields were down significantly in Muhlheim and Brauneberg – particularly due to peronospora – and sorting almost universally required, Dirk Richter reports that his overall 2009 crop was above- average volume, though he acknowledges that due to the need for relatively intensive spraying against fungal pests, both its ripening and the evolution of the resulting wines were retarded. Kabinetts were not picked until the last days of October; acid levels of most wines are well above vintage average; there was little Auslese; and some wines (Kabinetts, as it happens!) had not yet bottled when I visited in September. Richer – whose Rieslings from top sites continue to be bargain-priced – has just taken over a section of Erdener Treppchen that is in the family of his cellarmaster, who has no heirs. While there were still stocks of some 2008 vintage Rieslings available when I visited in September, the 2009 Richter Pinot Blanc had already been sold out without remainder, so I did not get chance to taste that of-late often promising bottling.Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800
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