Wood smoke, bark, mushrooms, forest floor, and roasted meats mingle in the nose of Boillot's 2008 Volnay Les Brouillards, to which are added on the palate cassis and beet root. Richly-flavored and quite plush, this rather somber wine reminds me of the dark side of 2005. A long if low-key finish caps a performance that should be worth revisiting over at least the next half dozen years. Pierre Boillot - Lucien's grandson, for details on whose history, properties, and connection with other Boillots, see issues and 186 and 170 - noted that his Cote de Beaune fruit required more rigorous sorting in 2008 than did that from the Cote de Nuits, and the former resulted in several wines of relatively aggressive astringency. I tasted his 2008s prior to their March and April bottlings, and (except where noted) assembled from tank. (Unfortunately, shortage of time kept me from tasting Boillot's 2007s.)Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524
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