A 2005 Volnay Les Brouillards offers a fascinating nose of black raspberry, black tea, smoked meat, and high-toned suggestions of distilled berries and herbs. In the mouth, the fruit takes on a slightly caramelized edge and hints of resin from the barrels (only one of the four total being new) and is underlain by pronounced tannin, finishing with admirable intensity but with rather graceless tannins. Is this just in an awkward state?Also recommended: 2005 Fixin (unknown; 85-87). Having moved from Volnay to a newly-expanded facility he shares with his wife, Ghislaine Barthod, Louis Boillot fields a large and geographically diverse range of generally impressive, pure-fruited Pinots. (In rating them, I have left some leeway to allow for my previous unfamiliarity with Louis Boillot’s wines.)Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990.