Readers looking for a wine that resembles a dry vintage port for $10 a bottle should check out Castell Remei's 1997 Gotim Bru. There are 3,000 cases of this delicious Tempranillo/Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot blend. Fat, with thrilling levels of jammy cherry and black currant fruit, chocolate, and spice, this dense, chewy effort is a great bargain. Drink it over the next 2-3 years.
ERIC SOLOMON, EUROPEAN CELLARS, 236 West 27 St., Room 801, New York, NY 10001; tel. (212) 924-4949; fax (212) 924-0567