The 2006 Aglianico Rubrato flows from the glass with layers of dark fruit, smoke, tar and sweet toasted oak. It is a pretty, soft-textured red with excellent depth in its fruit. A greater expression of varietal character and a more balanced use of oak could very well take this wine to another level. Still, it is a highly pleasurable red from Campania. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2011.Feudi di San Gregorio is a reliable producer of contemporary-styled wines from Campania. While not always the most exciting wines from the region, the average level of quality is commendable for such a large operation.Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642

Here is a modern expression of Aglianico with soft vanilla-like nuances lavished over black fruit, plum cake, spice and cola. The wine is dense and thick with toasted notes and fresh blackberry flavors.——M.L.(11/1/2008)—— 88