The 2008 Piccadilly Chardonnay has an earthy damp hay and mushroom character over notes of apple tart, toast, nuts, dried pineapple, marmite, meal and struck match. The medium-bodied palate gives a good amount of fruit with high acidity, some creaminess to the texture and a long finish. Drink it now through 2015. More and more stellar Australian Rieslings are emerging from disparate cool climate areas such as Frankland, Canberra District and Tasmania. But it’s South Australia that has more of a history and reputation for great Riesling as is still witnessed by older bottles still in circulation of Pewsey Vale in Eden Valley and many of John Vickery’s masterpieces crafted at Leo Buring from the 1960s until his retirement in 2009. Today it is Jeffrey Grosset (a protege of Vickery) and his single vineyard offerings from the higher altitudes of Clare Valley that have been setting the benchmark and setting a very high one at that. Grosset’s Polish Hill and Springvale are two of the world’s finest dry Rieslings and should be considered must-haves for the cellars of lovers of this style. Importer: John Larchet, The Australian Premium Wine Collection; www.tapwc.com.au