The 2006 Chardonnay Reserve offers white currant, Granny Smith apple, nectarine, and lemon blossom characteristics in its Chablis-like personality. It is medium-bodied and crisp in the mouth, but falls off in the finish. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. Tel. (707) 226-1395

Over the years Mondavi’s Reserve has taken a turn toward Chablis. Fans of lush, superripe Chards will find it tart, but it’s really balanced and elegant. With a dry tang of minerals, it shows bright Meyer lemon, lime, pineapple and white peach flavors. One-third new oak adds creamy, smoky vanilla complexities. Should develop over the next six years.——S.H.(12/1/2008)—— 93