The light gold-colored 2003 Chardonnay Reserve offers a moderately intense bouquet of honeysuckle, buttered citrus, and a touch of oak. Medium-bodied and elegant, it is best consumed over the next 3-4 years. I suppose it will always be difficult to comprehend that this winery is no longer being run by Robert Mondavi and his sons, Tim and Michael. However, their legacy of quality and their contribution to the appreciation of fine wine in the United States is irrefutable. These offerings, made by Tim Mondavi and his staff, are very impressive.Tel. (707) 226-1395 and (800) MONDAVI; Fax (707) 251-4386

Built along the same lines as Mondavi’s regular Chard, this is an earthy wine whose fruit is restrained. It’s sleek and elegant, very Chablisian in style, with a minerality through the finish. Should hold and improve. ——S.H.(3/1/2006)—— 90