The 1998 Chardonnay Reserve is a wine of finesse, delicacy, and refinement. As it unfolds in the glass, aromas of minerals, lightly buttered popcorn, tangerine, lemon zest, and honeysuckle emerge. With refreshing underlying acidity, moderate alcohol (13.4%), and a medium-bodied, crisp finish, it should drink well for 5 years.Tel. (707) 226-1395 and (800) MONDAVI; fax (707) 251-4386

Another solid effort from Mondavi, the 1998 reserve shows fine structure and an attractive spectrum of citrus, peach, creme brulee and nut aromas and flavors that work in lovely harmony. It’s full but not heavy, and balances fruit and acidity, sweetness and tartness, and light and full elements. The positive fruit, style and restraint are notable.——W.E.(7/1/2001)—— 90