The flagship 1997 Chardonnay Reserve is a beautifully rich, expansive, complex offering that reminds me of some grand cru whites produced by the Burgundian negociant, Joseph Drouhin. Everything is in balance in this delicate, extremely long wine. It unfolds as it sits in the glass, revealing subtle buttery popcorn, orange blossom, lemon zest, and restrained toasty new oak. A medium to full-bodied Chardonnay, with good underlying acidity, it should be uncommonly long-lived for a California Chardonnay, 5-10 years.I think it is safe to say that no white wine at Robert Mondavi goes through 100% malolactic fermentation given winemaker Tim Mondavi's belief in trying to produce wines with flavor, vibrancy, and as he says, "nerve."Mondavi's Chardonnays are given partial malolactic, although the percentage is less and less, with Tim Mondavi pushing for more precision and vibrancy. Yields continue to be lowered, resulting in concentrated, refreshing, food-friendly wines.Tel. (707) 259-9463 and (800) MONDAVI; Fax (707) 963-1007

Powerful aromas of oak, oriental spice and citrus, especially lemon, dominate. Citrus flavors are powerful, too. This is a lean, tart wine layered with lavish oak. Don’t look for tropical fruit in this El Nino wine, but it’s stylish and elegant.——S.H.(12/31/1999)—— 90