The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Maltroie was more aromatically reticent, unwinding with notes of minty apples and toasted nuts, followed by a satiny, open-knit palate that's bright and stony but seems to be somewhat less concentrated than either the Champs Gain that preceded it or the superb Clos Saint-Jean that followed it. It may simply be closed down after its recent bottling, but it wouldn't appear to be the star of the show this year.
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