Niellon's 1983 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Maltroie is drinking beautifully today, bursting from the glass with aromas of pineapple, buttered toast, confit mandarin, honeysuckle and fresh bread. Full-bodied, ripe and textural, it's a thick, unctuous, expansive wine that remains bright and dynamic at age forty.