Michel Niellon is among the top half dozen white burgundy producers. He consistently turns out brilliant, frequently awesome wines from his tiny domaine of 12.5 acres. In terms of decadence and complexity, Niellon is at the top of my personal shopping list. He fashioned terrific 1992s and 1991s.
Niellon's 1991s are special wines. He makes no bones about saying that much of his low-yielding vineyards were harvested before the rains. The yields in 1991 were a minuscule 20-25 hectoliters per hectare. The 1991 Chassagne-Montrachet-Maltroie (unfortunately, all of it is sold in Japan and England) offers a stunning nose of spring flowers, honeyed melons, and apples. Super-rich, with low acidity, and a fat, forward, blockbuster personality, this wine should be drunk over the next 3-4 years. Importer: Chateau and Estates, New York, NY
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