The mineral and citrus-scented 2000 Chassagne-Montrachet La Maltroie has a nose more reminiscent of a Sancerres than of a Cote de Beaune. At first it appears tight, austere, and foursquare, revealing only citrus-laced minerals, yet with air, this wine, which had been bottled 12 days prior to my visit, gained in lushness and breadth. It has excellent depth of fruit, yet I agree with Niellon when he states that "I prefer my son-in-law's (Michel Coutoux) Maltroie." Drink it over the next 7-8 years. Importer: Seagram Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 572-7725