The 2009 Branco is part of this issue's vertical. The 2008 and 2009 duo are an interesting contrast, both true to their vintages. The 2008 has a bit of a crisp edge, while this is riper and fruitier. I really didn't think this would hold so well--and a lot of 2009 Brancos that seemed wonderful early on, haven't--but this is delicious and nicely improved. At this point, it is fair to say that it is ageing beautifully and it has nothing to worry about. It is a lot of fun, yet it has the class to keep on keeping on, too. If anything, it seems even fresher than the 2008 (by more than its year of extra youth), although it certainly lacks that wine's crisp edge and steel. Its sweet fruit makes it one of the sexier wines in the lineup. It seems to be holding so far. What's not to like?

The 2009 Tinto “Crasto,” which used to be the entry level prior to the Flor, is in good form this year. If the big 2009 vintage supercharged the “Superior,” perhaps too much, it added a nice layer of depth here. This is an excellent value point in the lineup this year. Relatively deep and fleshy in this ripe vintage and for its status, it has seductive texture, ripe, well integrated tannins and it’s pretty tasty, too. It is far more restrained than the big “Superior” tinto offering this year, not as deep or as impressive, but also better balanced, more charming and easier to approach. It does thin rapidly with some air, but at that point its fruit also opens up and it is bursting with flavor. For the money, this has a little character, some intensity and it’s quite delicious. It is a nice performance at a nice price, even if nowhere near as concentrated or as dramatic as its “Superior” sibling. It is probably the best regular Tinto since the 2004, maybe since the over achieving 2003. Drink now-2017. Crasto is one of the Douro’s most prominent estates, typically one of its leaders. With a beautiful Quinta and view – easier to get to by boat, more interesting to get to by car – it justly attracts a lot of attention. The releases this year, 2009s, have plenty to offer, but I was not entirely convinced by all of the upper level wines. Perhaps time will tell another story as they calm down and settle down.Importer: Broadbent Selections, San Francisco, Ca.; (415) 931-1725.

Fragrant nose with plenty of crushed, red berry coulis notes. A vigorous, vibrant wine, blessed with plenty of spiced red fruits and floral touches. Great character.

Soft and ripe wine, with tropical fruits dominant. There is an attractive nutmeg flavor to go with the richness and the smooth texture.——R.V.(11/1/2010)—— 86