The 2008 Branco, the second release of this brand and the second wine in our vertical, is only one year younger than the 2007, but it seems way fresher. This vintage, of course, did a great job of providing freshness to wines. Freshness preserves. Completely prime time, this seems to be in terrific shape, lively and vibrant with respectable concentration. To be sure, it is not the most concentrated of the group. This makes its way with zest and crispness. There might be a hint of maturity around the edges, but not much just yet. It is in a great place just now. Don't risk holding it too long, though. All things come to an end. Take it in stages if you keep holding it.

The 2008 TINTO “CRASTO” is a blend of 35% Tinta Roriz, 25% Tinta Barroca, 25% Touriga Franca and 15% Touriga Nacional, aged in stainless steel. Earthy and showing some funky notes, this is well put together this year, once past the aromatics. Well balanced and pointed, it has ripe tannins for support of its modest mid-palate, good flavor and a lot of character, but those gamey notes, which I personally thought would meld well with a venison or roast beef dish, may not be to everyone’s taste. There was a lot here to like, though. There were 361,180 bottles produced. It should hold pretty well. Drink now-2017. Importer: Broadbent Selections, San Francisco, Ca.; (415) 931-1725.

Douro white wines generally come from high altitude vineyards to preserve freshness. This wine, produced by Quinta do Crasto, is rich, layering wood, green plums, a juicy pink grapefruit edge, with vanilla to bring the flavors together. ——R.V.(11/1/2009)—— 88

This new baby from Crasto is an easygoing wine, full of berry fruits, gentle tannins. It is ready to drink, finishing softly and freshly.——R.V.(11/1/2010)—— 87