Extraordinary stuff. The aromas practically defy description, packed with smoke, tobacco, cigar box and cured meat, all wrapped around a deep, rich core of black cherries. Picks up even more complexity in the mouth, adding vanilla, plums and dates in an expansive, mouthfilling experience, then—wham—the tannins hit home, sending you reeling and wondering when this wine will finally blossom. Great now, great 20 years from now. ——W.E.(4/2/2004)—— 95