A wine that the Sabon’s said closed down quickly, the 1999 Chateauneuf du Pape offers up a mature, classical feel in its darker-styled fruits, garrigue, leather, ground pepper and floral notes. Distinctly Provencal, it’s about as textbook a mature, classically made southern Rhone as you’re likely to find. While it’s advanced, it still has plenty of fruit and texture, as well as sweet tannin, all suggesting it will continue to evolve gracefully. I’m not sure if this estate produces one of the longest-lived Chateauneuf du Papes out there, or if it just seems that way due to the fact that they have such a fantastic library of old wines and I’m able to taste more of them! Nevertheless, Clos du Mont Olivet, which is now run by Thierry Sabon, is a brilliant estate that fashions traditional, age-worthy Chateauneuf du Papes that have incredibly broad drink windows. Various American importers including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; David Hinkle, North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910; Dionysus Imports, Manassas, VA; tel. (703) 392-7073; Ideal Wines and Spirits, Medford, MA; tel. (617) 395-3300; The Wine Company, St. Paul, MN; tel. (651) 487-1212; and Import Wines, Middleton, WI; tel. (608) 833-8622