The 1989 Chateauneuf du Pape is a smoking effort that’s evolved beautifully. Gamey, wild and complex, with notions of thyme, beef blood, ground pepper and garrigue, it’s fully resolved and mature on the palate, yet still has beautiful density, plenty of fruit and a great finish. This is another vintage that the Sabon’s said closed down quickly after release. It’s also worth noting that this is the first vintage where they made a Cuvee du Papet bottling. I’m not sure if this estate produces one of the longest-lived Chateauneuf du Papes out there, or if it just seems that way due to the fact that they have such a fantastic library of old wines and I’m able to taste more of them! Nevertheless, Clos du Mont Olivet, which is now run by Thierry Sabon, is a brilliant estate that fashions traditional, age-worthy Chateauneuf du Papes that have incredibly broad drink windows. Various American importers including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; David Hinkle, North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910; Dionysus Imports, Manassas, VA; tel. (703) 392-7073; Ideal Wines and Spirits, Medford, MA; tel. (617) 395-3300; The Wine Company, St. Paul, MN; tel. (651) 487-1212; and Import Wines, Middleton, WI; tel. (608) 833-8622