From a northeast-facing, cool climate vineyard, the 2007 Pinot Noir Reed Vineyard comes from a 4.4-acre vineyard planted in 1975 (one of California’s oldest Pinot Noir sites). Although it displays a light, somewhat feeble color, it is a complex Pinot offering vegetative, autumnal fall foliage, mushroom, herb, and spice box characteristics intermixed with notions of sassafras, cherry, and plum-like fruit. My least favorite of these offerings, it should drink well for 8-10 years. This may be the strongest group of wines Calera has produced in many years. From their less expensive whites through the generic and single vineyard Pinot Noirs, this remarkable portfolio showcases this idiosyncratic terroir isolated on Mt. Harlan. For starters, Calera has once again made the finest Aligote in America. Tel. (831) 637-9170; Fax (831) 637-9070

Brings to mind the 2001 bottling, which originally was also pale in color, tightly wound and firm in acidity. Like it, this ’07 is not showing well now. It seems dry and thin and lacking in opulence, especially if you’re accustomed to the big California style. But it’s true to its terroir, and the way it grows in the glass lends itself to developing over the next 6–10 years. ——S.H.(12/15/2010)—— 91