This venerable winery, which has thirty years of history (long by California standards), has turned out a bevy of new releases. The cool climate 2004 Pinot Noir Reed Vineyard exhibits a dark ruby color as well as a beautiful, sweet nose of cranberries, kirsch liqueur, and spice, and surprisingly evolved and intense fruit for a young Calera Pinot. As it sits in the glass, spicy, sassafras, Allspice, and a Gevrey-Chambertin-like meatiness and roasted herb character emerge. This is a medium to full-bodied wine with considerable power, outstanding fruit depth as well as ripeness, and surprising charm for a young Reed. Drink it over the next decade or more. Tel. (831) 637-9170; Fax (831) 637-9070

Shows the earthiness that often marks young Calera Pinot, which makes it less flashy but more elegant and food-friendly than many more expensive wines. The herb-infused cherry, raspberry and cola flavors are ripe and succulent, but acidity is a little deficient, so this may not be the most ageable wine.——S.H.(12/15/2007)—— 88