The 2009 Pinot Noir Coastlands Vineyard is one of the more complete wines from the estate’s collection of Sonoma Coast Pinots. Aromatics, fruit, acidity and tannin are all beautifully integrated in this supple, expressive wine. Layers of dark red fruit build effortlessly to the long finish, where the wine’s underlying minerality is most apparent. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. I tasted a dizzying array of Pinot Noirs from Williams Selyem and winemaker Bob Cabral. Yields were down in 2009 because of bunch-stem necrosis, a condition that can occur because of weather/humidity extremes or mineral imbalances. Otherwise, it was a pretty regular vintage with an even set and a harvest that took place beginning in early September.Tel. (707) 433-6425

Such are the tannins on this bone-dry Pinot Noir that it feels astringent and rustic now. That’s despite a deep, sweetly ripe core of blackberries and currants. It’s certainly a big wine, packing in enough power for two wines, but lacking somewhat in delicacy and finesse. Give this brooding wine a good, long decant. Could come around after eight years or so in the bottle.——S.H.(2/1/2012)—— 89