The most concentrated wine of this group is the 2003 Pinot Noir Coastlands Vineyard. Its extraordinary perfume of crushed rocks, flowers, black raspberries, and sweet cherries is followed by a dense, medium to full-bodied, rich, moderately tannic, long, persistent wine that will be even better with 1-2 more years of bottle age. It should last for 10-15 years. Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546

There’s more acidity in this wine than most Williams Selyem Pinots. Take a sip, and the flavor of cherries explodes on the palate, along with oak. Compared to the winery’s ’03s, it seems sweet, almost cloying, on the finish.——S.H.(3/1/2006)—— 87