The deepest-colored of these Pinots is the 2007 Pinot Noir Coastlands Vineyard. The opaque ruby/purple color is followed by a tight but promising nose of black currants, black cherries, black raspberries, flint, and earth. Pure, rich, and full-bodied, this youthful effort is the most backward and infantile of all the Pinots. It may also have the finest upside potential, but it needs 2-3 years of cellaring. It should evolve effortlessly over the next 12-15 years. The single vineyard Pinot Noirs are made from a wide range of California vineyards, primarily in the north, with Russian River and Sonoma Coast dominating, but there is also an Anderson Valley site (Ferrington), San Benito site (Vista Verde), and Yorkville Highlands (Weir). The Chardonnays are nearly as powerful as the Zinfandels in terms of alcohol strength, ranging from 14.5% to 14.8%.Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546

This is one of the darkest of Williams Selyem’s new Pinots and also one of the ripest. It’s jammy in the intensity of raspberry and cherry fruit, with a savory, Dr. Pepper cola richness. The spiciness, which is one of winemaker Bob Cabral’s specialties in capturing, is exotic. It’s a big, fat, rich wine that needs decanting now, and should age for 4–6 years.——S.H.(2/1/2010)—— 93