Conterno Fantino’s 2005 Sori Ginestra demonstrates why Ginestra is justly regarded as one of Piedmont’s top vineyards. The wine is simply beautiful in the way the bouquet melds seamlessly into the fruit, all of which comes together on the building finish, where the typical balsamic and mentholated notes that are often found in this wine make an appearance. The 2005 is a fresh, vibrant Sori Ginestra with notable depth, and while some of the muscle and sheer excitement of the very finest vintages is missing, this is a very pretty, harmonious wine. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025.
This is a gorgeous set of wines from Conterno-Fantino. My November visit coincided with the first of several heavy snowfalls the region experienced during the winter of 2008/2009. Navigating the steep hills of Monforte and environs was oddly calming as there was no one on the roads. As for the wines, they were magnificent. Conterno-Fantino fans have much to look forward to as the estate’s 2006, 2007 and 2008 Barolos all appeared very promising when I tasted them from barrel. In the meantime, these fine 2005s are among the most gorgeous and well-balanced wines I encountered. Not much has changed here in terms of vinification. The 2005s were vinified in rotary fermenters and aged in 100% new French oak barrels from coopers Taransaud, Boutes and Quintessence. Be that as it may, the wines seem increasingly elegant and refined. Conterno-Fantino remains one of my favorite Piedmont producers and is to be commended for the consistently high quality it delivers across its entire range.
Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900
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