A softer, gentler Barolo, with Nebbiolo’s hard edges tamed by a combination of the vintage, short, rotary fermentation and new oak. Yet as if to thwart critics of the modern style, it retains the essence of Nebbiolo in its floral, cherry and leather aromas—vanilla plays only a small part. Firms up considerably on the finish, suggesting greater ageability than at first glance, picking up hints of citrus peel and tea leaves. ——J.C.(11/15/2004)—— 89
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