The estate’s 1989 Barolo Sori Ginestra is decidedly more powerful and muscular than the 1990. Rich, sweet and expansive, it offers up scents of menthol, truffles, licorice, dark fruit and spices, showing quite a bit of density and superb length. Early signs of oxidation have begun to creep in, suggesting the wine is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2012.
Claudio Conterno and Guido Fantino started their winery in 1982. Conterno’s family owned one of the many estates that supplied wines in barrel to the region’s top bottlers, including Prunotto, Bersano and Rocche dei Manzoni, although he himself had originally studied for a career in engineering. Fantino worked at Prunotto until 1981, when he married Conterno’s sister. The partnership of the two families, captured here in its early days, has gone on to produce some of Piedmont’s most memorable wines. The 1989 and 1990 Barolos, from the Ginestra vineyard in Monforte, were vinified in cement for 10-12 days and then aged in cask. Conterno-Fantino has come a long way since these wines were made.