The only white wine I tasted was the 1995 Crozes-Hermitage blanc. Made of 80% Marsanne and 20% Roussanne, it is a ripe, creamy-textured, one-dimensional but fruity, citrusy white wine that is meant to be drunk over the next 2-3 years. Alain Graillot has been the spiritual and qualitative leader of the new generation of young wine producers largely centered in the less prestigious appellations of St.-Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage. It is hard to believe Graillot's excellent debut vintage was 1985. He consistently produces some of the finest, most reasonably priced wines of the northern Rhone. His best two vintages to date are 1989 and 1990 (truly profound wines were produced here and elsewhere in Hermitage and Crozes-Hermitage). Graillot's 1994s are very fine, and his 1995s appear to be equally promising, perhaps superior. Importer: A Christopher Cannan Selection, Europvin USA, Watertown, MA; tel. (617) 924-7620