The 1995 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Beauvenir (59% Roussanne and 41% Clairette) reveals some of the toasty, pain grille-like scents that are the result of barrel fermentation, good, ripe, honeysuckle and tropical fruit flavors, medium body, fine richness, average acidity, and a spicy, long finish. It is a classy, nearly outstanding example of white Chateauneuf du Pape that is intended to rival the splendid cuvee of old vine Roussanne produced by Beaucastel. I suspect La Nerthe will make even greater wine, but there is no reason to complain about the quality emanating from this, Chateauneuf du Pape's most historical estate, and its only grand chateau. Importer: Veuve Clicquot Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 888-7575
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