The question mark affixed to the score of the 2003 Les Brugueres is basically a warning. This is an intriguing (I loved it) wine with a murky light gold color. The color should alert tasters that something is going on here ... and a lot is. Made from 100+ year old vines of white Grenache, it exhibits a remote similarity to a top-flight white Chateauneuf du Pape. Very kinky, it reveals aromas of linseed oil, melted wax, ripe fruits (particularly peach and lychee), and underlying minerality. Dry, full-bodied, and powerful, with the intensity of a substantial red in its flavor profile, it is one of those “l(fā)ove it or leave it” dry whites. Although unusual, to my tastes, it is brilliant. My instincts suggest it should be drunk over the next 6-12 months because I can’t imagine it holding together longer. But, who knows? Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565