The sublime, gorgeous 2005 Barbaresco Albesani is laced with the essence of dark cherries, flowers, spices, minerals on a rich, textured frame. This large-scaled, superb Barbaresco will require patience, but is a classic in the making. With time in the glass, the wine’s inner perfume emerges more fully in a dazzling, totally polished style. Cantina del Pino’s Barbaresco Albesani is a new bottling from a parcel in the hillside of the same name in Neive that also contains Santo Stefano, one of the most storied vineyards in the world. The microclimate here is quite warm, which contributes to the wine’s richness and body. Readers will not want to miss this superb effort, which is easily one of the finest 2005 Barbarescos. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025.
My visit with proprietor Renato Vacca was illuminating, as we toured several vineyards during the 2009 harvest and tasted through a number of wines. This year, Vacca has a new Barbaresco from the Albesani vineyard – and it is a knockout. Despite all of his recent success Vacca remains humble and down to earth, qualities that should serve him very well for the future. Readers should do whatever they can to taste these wines, the Barbarescos in particular. Vacca’s entry-level wines are equally delicious but they are made in an approachable style meant for near-term drinking, even if the raw materials suggest they could be crafted in a more serious vein. In today’s economy, though, it is hard to criticize a producer who makes wines that are so appealing when young, particularly at this quality level and price.
Various American importers, including: Artisan Wine, Norwalk, CT; tel. (203) 866-4552; Cavatappi Distribution, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 282-5226; Diamond Wine Merchants, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 567-9897; Ideal Wine and Spirit Company Inc., Medford, MA; tel. (781) 395-3300
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