The 2007 Barolo Plicotti is a big step up from the Pi Vigne. It shows gorgeous freshness in its sweet red cherries, spices and flowers, all backed up by firm yet well-integrated tannins. There is no shortage of energy and sheer harmony here. This is a classy showing. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. This set of reviews includes several 2007 Baroli that Grasso tends to bottle later than his two flagships Bricco Manzoni and Bricco Luciani. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

Grasso’s 2003 Barolo Vigna Plicotti is among the more advanced wines in this group. The fruit is sweet and ripe, but the presence of leather, spice and coffee bean notes suggest this wine won’t be especially long-lived. It also doesn’t appear to have enough stuffing to stand up to the hard, imposing tannins. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2013. Federico Grasso is a small artisan grower based in La Morra. The estate’s Barolos are among my favorite wines for near-term drinking in most vintages. However, these 2003s show an uneven level of quality which is typical of the vintage.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

The 2001 Barolo Bricco Plicotti is gorgeous. Sweet red berries, flowers, mint and autumn leaves are some of the notes that emerge from this feminine Barolo. The Plicotti is subtle and striking in its beauty. It has also aged very well. Red berries, flowers and mint linger on the bright finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2021. Grasso is one of the most overlooked producers in Piedmont. The Baroli are delicious upon release and also age beautifully, even in lesser years. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Elk Grove Village, IL; tel. (847) 430-3887

The 2001 Barolo Vigna Plicotti remains somewhat unexpressive. It presents a deep nose redolent of spices, vanilla and toasted oak. It is dense and austere for now, revealing just a hint of ripe red fruit but showing excellent length and freshness. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2016. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700; and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

The 2000 Barolo Plicotti is a beautiful wine laced with tobacco, autumn leaves and dried cherries. It is a pretty, relatively small-scaled Barolo that has aged exquisitely. Layers of fruit flow effortlessly to the long, textured finish. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. Grasso’s Baroli have a track record of developing beautifully, at least into the mid-term.