Grasso’s 2003 Barolo Vigna Plicotti is among the more advanced wines in this group. The fruit is sweet and ripe, but the presence of leather, spice and coffee bean notes suggest this wine won’t be especially long-lived. It also doesn’t appear to have enough stuffing to stand up to the hard, imposing tannins. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2013. Federico Grasso is a small artisan grower based in La Morra. The estate’s Barolos are among my favorite wines for near-term drinking in most vintages. However, these 2003s show an uneven level of quality which is typical of the vintage.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411