Pietro Ratti’s 2010 Barolo Conca delivers a steady, deep personality. It wraps softly around the palate with velvety texture and enduring flavors of black fruit and ripe cherry. A subtle note of sour fruit appears on the close and speaks to the wine’s need to evolve with additional cellar aging. I look forward to revisiting Barolo Conca in ten years or more. Drink: 2018-2027. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby & Co., www.dreyfusashby.com

The 2009 Barolo Conca delivers muscle and dark concentration. It feels large and velvety in the mouth with lingering tones of espresso, black fruit and cola. I can’t help but notice the wine’s exotic, mysterious personality with overtones of Indian or Middle Eastern spice market. This is for those who like a little attitude in their Barolo. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. You can always count on Pietro Ratti for a fine bottle of wine. He is one of the most consistent and bankable producers in La Morra especially for those who enjoy the softer and more sensual side of Barolo. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770

The 2008 Barolo Conca shows considerably more freshness and vibrancy than the Marcenasco. Freshly cut flowers, spices and sweet red cherries are woven together nicely in this gracious, mid-weight Barolo. The French oak is deftly balanced. Though quite tight and understandably young, the Marcenasco impresses for its overall balance. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2028. This is a beautiful set of 2008s from Pietro Ratti. While his 2007s were quite extroverted, Ratti’s 2008s return to a cool, inward style that is both classic and also typical of the year. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770

The 2007 Barolo Conca is a deep, structured wine loaded with dark fruit, spices, menthol and licorice. This is a huge style for a Barolo from La Morra but there is plenty of underlying structure to balance the fruit pound for pound. The Conca is going to be a fascinating wine to follow over the course of its life. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2022. Proprietor Pietro Ratti continues to dial up the quality, especially with his Baroli. In 2007 those wines aren’t as differentiated in quality as they typically are, which is one of the qualities of the vintage in general. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770

The 2006 Barolo Conca opens with a blast of dark red fruit before it shuts down mightily in the glass. The Conca appears to have more mid-palate density and richness than the Marcenasco. The aromatics remain rather reticent, suggesting the wine will need at least several years before it begins to uncoil. Still, it is hard not to be impressed by the Conca in this vintage. The finish in particular is noteworthy for the balance of fruit and structural components. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770