The 2009 RESERVA is an old vines field blend (80%) with 20% Touriga Nacional, aged for 18 months in 80% new French oak. This takes the nicely constructed regular Tinto, adds a couple of layers of depth, a lot more intensity and pure power. I wasn’t always sure that extra “everything” was to its advantage, however; it is a wine that is a creature of this big vintage, seeming rather big, showing its alcohol a bit (14.9%) and projecting a rather disjointed and burly demeanor in its youth. It did show some evidence of coming around, although it finished rather astringent and hard edged even after a couple of hours. This is a concentrated wine that will have to prove its bones in the cellar—it needs a little time, for sure, but it does have some balance questions to answer. Despite its potential, I think a little conservatism in scoring is warranted at the moment. There were 6,000 bottles produced, along with some large format bottles. Drink 2014-2023. Importer: Winebow, Inc., Montvale, N.J.; tel: (201) 445-0620

The 2008 RESERVA is one of those Douro old vines field blends, with 10% of Touriga Franca added in. It adds a layer or two of depth to the regular Tinto, along with more intensity of flavor and some oak. It is quite a mouthful, powerful and piercing, crisp and sunny, with remarkable grip and intensity on the finish. As with a lot of ‘08s, it is showing rather disjointed, and it is not terribly attractive now. It is tight enough to make it harder to evaluate than most any Passadouro Reserva I’ve had, even after spending some hours with it. I think this has significant potential, and there was some lovely and fragrant fruit underneath the tannins and acidity. While it may yet match its 2007 counterpart, it will require some patience and may not have the same audience. Drink 2013-2027. Importer: Winebow, Inc., Montvale, N.J.; tel: (201) 445-0620

In an intriguingly old-fashioned style, all hard tannins and brooding power, this wine also impresses with its stern demeanor. How it will develop is hard to tell at this stage. To judge by the simpler quinta wine (see September 2008 Buying Guide), the fruits will come through, but this Reserva certainly demands a long wait. ——R.V.(11/1/2008)—— 92

The 2007 RESERVA is a Douro blend, rich, bright and laced with sweet oak notes. It doesn’t seem to have a lot of mid-palate concentration at first, but after about 90 minutes of aeration, it expands in the glass and fruit flavors finally pop up through the oak overlay, making the wine quite delectable. It also begins to show its structure, as relatively ripe but quite noticeable tannins emerge as well. This young Reserva will be approachable very young, but it could use some time to settle down, particularly to let the oak integrate a bit better. It did show more complexity with air and it should grow into its score in a year or so, although it is a bit pricey. Drink 2011-2022. Prices continue to see-saw here and at other wineries as importers and producers try to account for the economy and exchange rates, as well as more ordinary market concerns. The Reserva is UP, the Passa and Tinto are DOWN, at least according to estimated list prices, which are admittedly sometimes pure fiction (usually on the high side) compared to what happens in the actual marketplace. That said, the Tinto should be a nice value in 2007.Importer: Winebow, Inc., Montvale, N.J.; tel: (201) 445-0620