The 2008 RESERVA is one of those Douro old vines field blends, with 10% of Touriga Franca added in. It adds a layer or two of depth to the regular Tinto, along with more intensity of flavor and some oak. It is quite a mouthful, powerful and piercing, crisp and sunny, with remarkable grip and intensity on the finish. As with a lot of ‘08s, it is showing rather disjointed, and it is not terribly attractive now. It is tight enough to make it harder to evaluate than most any Passadouro Reserva I’ve had, even after spending some hours with it. I think this has significant potential, and there was some lovely and fragrant fruit underneath the tannins and acidity. While it may yet match its 2007 counterpart, it will require some patience and may not have the same audience. Drink 2013-2027. Importer: Winebow, Inc., Montvale, N.J.; tel: (201) 445-0620

In an intriguingly old-fashioned style, all hard tannins and brooding power, this wine also impresses with its stern demeanor. How it will develop is hard to tell at this stage. To judge by the simpler quinta wine (see September 2008 Buying Guide), the fruits will come through, but this Reserva certainly demands a long wait. ——R.V.(11/1/2008)—— 92