The 2005 RESERVA is, not surprisingly, more intense than the Tinto, with more of a certain mouth-coating aspect to it. It is rather elegant in the mid-palate, and gripping on the finish. While focused and persistent, it is a more compact and lighter wine than the superb 2004. Drink 2009-2017.Importer: Europvin, New York, N.Y.; tel. (212) 243-1236.

In an intriguingly old-fashioned style, all hard tannins and brooding power, this wine also impresses with its stern demeanor. How it will develop is hard to tell at this stage. To judge by the simpler quinta wine (see September 2008 Buying Guide), the fruits will come through, but this Reserva certainly demands a long wait. ——R.V.(11/1/2008)—— 92