The 2020 Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Barre Monopole (Maison Louis Jadot) opens in the glass with notes of sweet red berries, orange rind, peonies, cinnamon and cloves. Medium to full-bodied, it's more introverted and tightly wound than the seductive Les Mitans.

The 2019 Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Barre Monopole (Maison Louis Jadot) is more structured than the Mitans, bursting with aromas of plums, candied peel, spices and toasty new oak. Medium-bodied, chalky and a little reserved on this showing, I expect it to round out nicely.

Wafting from the glass with aromas of cassis and plums mingled with spices and cherries, the 2018 Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Barre Monopole (Maison Louis Jadot) is medium to full-bodied, supple and succulent, with lively acids, powdery tannins and a pretty, delicately herbal core of fruit.

The 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Barre Monopole (Maison Louis Jadot) is a definite success, wafting from the glass with aromas of plummy fruit, wood smoke and spices, subtly framed by sweet new wood. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and succulent, its fine tannins cloaked in fleshy fruit. While these grapes are purchased, Jadot farms the vineyard.