The 2009 Volnay Clos de la Barre is impressive. It shows fabulous energy in its dark cherries, flowers and spices. There is plenty of vibrancy to match the ripe, seductive 2009 expression of the fruit. This is a gorgeous, harmonious wine with all of its elements in the right place. I imagine the 2009 will drink well pretty much right out of the gate, as it striking, even today. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Importer: Kobrand Corp., Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7756

The 2009 Volnay Clos de la Barre reveals dazzling perfume and generous dark fruit, with hints of mentholated, balsamic notes that add complexity. This is a decidedly virile, powerful Volnay endowed with tons of depth. It will be a fascinating wine to follow over the coming years. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029. I tasted an impressive range of wines with Jacques Lardiere and his successor Frederic Barnier, who is slated to take over when Lardiere retires at the end of 2012. Jadot makes a mind-bending number of wines, but I limited myself to the best 35 or so examples. In 2009 Jadot began harvesting on September 6. All of the reds were made from 100% destemmed fruit. Maceration times varied from wine to wine, but according to Lardiere all of the wines were made with essentially the same approach. Lardiere is another of the producers who compares 2009 to 1959, and believes the wines will age well because of their density of fruit and minerality. Many of the estate’s own vineyards are farmed biodynamically, but of course Jadot also sources a significant amount of wine from other growers that is not necessarily from biodynamically farmed vineyards.Importer: Kobrand Corp., Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7756

The walled Clos de la Barre is a Jadot monopoly. This 2009 has great depth of flavor, hinting at the Volnay richness while remaining structured. That makes it a concentrated wine, red and black fruits mingling with wood and intense acidity. For long-term aging over six years and more. — (5/1/2012) —95