The ruby-colored 2003 Volnay Clos de la Barre (red) was picked two days before the rains. Its roasted aromas display notes of grilled oak and baked cherries. On the palate, this medium-bodied, somewhat rustic wine has appealing depth to its plummy cherry and asphalt flavors yet is firm in the finish (Lardiere says he will be fining it to round out the tannin). Projected maturity: 2008-2013.

Rich, with flavors of stewed fruits, red plums, sweetness and softness. It’s certainly a super-ripe wine, maybe too obviously rich, but immediately delicious.——R.V.(12/31/2008)—— 90