The 2010 Old Vines is pure unfortified Moscatel grown on slate soils at about 700 meters altitude in a mountain zone of the Aixarquía in Málaga. The selected bunches of Moscatel de Alejandría are dried inside the winery for 2-3 months (in the past they were dried in the sun but they wanted to preserve the acidity) before the grapes are pressed and fermented in French oak barrels where the wine slowly matures for two years before bottling. The final result has 13% alcohol, 10 grams of acidity and 355 grams residual sugar. 2010 seems more subtle, harmonious, elegant and clean. The palate is also very harmonious, obviously sweet but not overtly sweet, with very good freshness and very fine, elegant flavors. It's drinkable now, but compared with the 2008 it should develop more aromatic complexity with a little bit more time in bottle, because as the wine sits in the glass it develops more complexity–even showing some curry aromas. 1,300 bottles produced.

Cropped from a shorter vintage, the 2008 Old Vines is a selection of Moscatel de Alejandría grapes from old vines ('vi?as viejas' in Spanish) dried for two or three months inside the winery and slowly fermented in different sized oak barrels topped up to avoid fermentation. The wine matures for some two years, more in this case, as it fermented very slowly and was finally bottled in 2012. This sweet wine has 13% alcohol, close to 9 grams of acidity and 346 grams of unfermented sugar per liter. It has a deep amber color, basically orange, with a bright and clean nose of honey, dried apricots, pollen and beeswax; clean and powerful with the added complexity of some time in bottle. The dense palate is quite balanced with great harmony between sweetness and acidity. This is a superb sweet wine. I kept the open bottle for two or three weeks and the wine didn't budge. Only 600 bottles were produced because a hailstorm reduced the crop.

The 2007 Old Vines has the same residual sugar as the Victoria cuvee but was entirely barrel-fermented. The grapes were selected from a parcel ranging in age from 80-100 years. It displays a deeper color bordering on amber followed by a splendid and already complex perfume of peach, apricot, mineral, and tropical aromas. On the palate it is exceptionally intense and concentrated with a firm, balancing acid structure which will keep this superb effort intact for many years. Victoria Ordonez recommends pairing it with mango ice cream or black chocolate. Jorge Ordonez & Co specializes in irresistible sweet wines made from Moscatel de Alejandria grapes grown on the steep hillsides of Almachar in Malaga. As an aside, I was shown the 2005 Esencia de Almachar which was previously reviewed in Issue 175 (2/08). Patient purchasers should be pleased to know that the wine is evolving beautifully and should continue to provide pleasure for another 10+ years. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, MA; Tel. (781) 461-5767

The 2006 Old Vines is late-harvested with the grapes dried in trays. It was fermented in new French oak with fermentation stopped by lowering the temperature when residual sugar was at 250 g/l. Dark amber-colored, it reveals intense candied tropical aromas, orange zest, tangerine, and a hint of ginger. Round, viscous, and long, it is a fine way to end a meal. Made from 100% Moscatel de Alejandra. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

The 2005 Old Vines is a selection of the best 80- to 100-year-old vineyards. It was fermented in new French oak and contains 250 g/l of residual sugar. Green gold in color, it has a superb bouquet of mineral, lime, slate, spring flowers, and tropical aromas. Sweet, viscous, and concentrated, with excellent focus and length, this is an unctuous, lengthy dessert wine with which to finish a meal. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain; tel. (781) 461-5767