The 2003 Barolo Vigneto Rocche is made in a more linear, focused style. It offers sweet toasted oak, dark fruit and cocoa notes with excellent length. Although it opens with air, the wine remains dominated by its hard, aggressive tannins and offers limited complexity as well as elegance. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2015. Renato Corino is one of the most passionate producers I know. Always generous with his time and his wines, he embodies all of the qualities of La Morra’s finest artisanal growers. Corino’s new winery is perched atop the Arborina vineyard, just a stone’s throw from his neighbors Mauro Veglio and Elio Altare. These 2003 Barolos are the first Barolos Renato Corino has bottled under his own label. It is impossible to judge a producer from a single vintage, especially when it is as freakish as 2003, but as I note above, it will be interesting to see how the two Corino estates develop over the coming years. For now, these 2003 Barolos lack color, even for Nebbiolo, and don’t appear to be destined for long lives.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

The 2000 Barolo Rocche has lost quite a bit of its fruit and is fairly far along in its development. Hints of flowers, dried herbs and mint add a measure of complexity on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. These wines were made before brothers Renato and Giuliano Corino had divided their family’s estate. Today the Rocche is made by Renato. Each brother bottles a Vecchie Vigne (old-vine) Barolo, but the vines that inform the 2000 currently belong to Giuliano.