Even more powerful and structured than the Bienvenues, the 2020 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru offers up aromas of citrus oil, confit orange and crisp stone fruit mingled with nutmeg, white flowers and freshly baked bread. Full-bodied, deep and concentrated, it's muscular and tightly wound, with racy acids, chalky dry extract and a long, resonant finish.

More tightly wound than the Bienvenues, the 2019 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru unfurls in the glass with aromas of pear, confit citrus, fresh pastry, nutmeg, hazelnuts and beeswax, framed by a deft touch of youthful reduction. Full-bodied, deep and tensile, with huge levels of concentration and extract, it's layered and muscular, with a seamless, structured profile and a long, saline finish.

The 2018 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru is fabulous, unwinding to reveal complex aromas of citrus oil, warm bread, frangipane, pear, white flowers and smoke. Full-bodied, satiny and layered, it's ample and muscular, with a seamless, elegant profile despite its scale, and lively girdling acids. Long and penetrating, it derives from an ideally located parcel.

The 2017 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru is also superb. Offering up a deep and complex bouquet of citrus oil, pear, oatmeal, beeswax and wheat toast, framed by a subtle touch of reduction, the wine is full-bodied, dense and multidimensional, with a racy spine of acidity underpinning its layered, muscular core, concluding with a long and vibrant finish. "It's a vintage adapted to this vineyard," observes Germain, and it's hard to dissent. From barrel, I thought the Chevalier had the edge, but from bottle, I'm inclined to favor the Batard. Readers should note that this cuvée derives from a different source from the Girardin wines of yesteryear.