The 2018 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru is fabulous, unwinding to reveal complex aromas of citrus oil, warm bread, frangipane, pear, white flowers and smoke. Full-bodied, satiny and layered, it's ample and muscular, with a seamless, elegant profile despite its scale, and lively girdling acids. Long and penetrating, it derives from an ideally located parcel.