My favorite of the 2020s from Rostaing—at least until I try the wines again next year—is the 2020 Cote Rotie la Cote Blonde. Scents of crushed stone and red raspberries give the impression of seamless transmission of terroir allied to incredible fruit purity. Full-bodied, rich and velvety, it's an amazing expression of Cote Rotie that should age effortlessly for a couple of decades.

Even better than last year, the recently bottled 2017 Cote Rotie La Cote Blonde was singing when I tasted it back in July. Floral and berry notes accent mocha-tinged aromas in this medium to full-bodied wine. It's silky, long and intense, with a couple of decades of life ahead of it. It's simply difficult to describe the waves of savory complexity this wine now shows, coupled with a succulent texture and tremendous length.

The 2016 Cote Rotie La Cote Blonde (from the lieu-dit of the same name—not a blend of sites) is a terrific effort. It blends the structure of la Viallière with the elegance of la Landonne, making it a truly complete and compelling bottle. Some mocha, black olive and meaty notes lend it a savory cast, while the palate is creamy and concentrated, firm but silky. It's medium to full-bodied, with a fine, licorice-tinged finish that lingers a good long time. It should drink well for 20+ years.

I give Rostaing's 2015 Cote Rotie La Cote Blonde the slightest of edges over the La Landonne for its more aromatic, floral nose. It shows that same unfathomable depth and richness married to a sense of weightlessness and elegance that marks the La Landonne, and it also shows those wonderfully pure raspberry flavors. It's lush, velvety and incredibly long on the finish. Collectors fortunate enough to grab some of each will have great fun comparing the two over the next 30 years or so.