The 2019 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur is another superb cuvée from Bessin. Wafting from the glass with notes of Anjou pear, crisp stone fruit, white flowers, pastry cream and wet stones. Full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, it's textural and chiseled, with huge depth at the core and a long, resonant finish. As is often the case, this is one of the finest wines of the vintage.

The 2018 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur has turned out brilliantly. Unusually demonstrative for a young Valmur chez Bessin, it bursts with aromas of citrus oil, apple blossom, crisp orchard fruit and wet stones. Medium to full-bodied, round and fleshy, it misses some of the cut and tension of a top vintage, but its charming, open-knit profile means that it will offer considerable near-term appeal.

Bessin's stunning 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur opens in the glass with a complex bouquet of Meyer lemon, white flowers, peach, oyster shells, pastry cream and fresh mint. On the palate, it's full-bodied, satiny-textured and multidimensional, with broad shoulders, striking depth and concentration, racy acids and a long, searingly mineral finish. This bottling, which still flies under the radar compared to many of Chablis's finest wines, is well worth a special effort to seek out.