This offering is tank-fermented and aged as well as put through full malolactic fermentation. Given its purity and concentration, this is an excellent choice for readers seeking non-oaked examples of flinty, ripe, rich, Chardonnay-based wines. Expensive as well as viscous and fat is the 1997 Chablis Valmur. It reveals opulent, tropical fruit notes, and has been shaped more by the vintage than its terroir. Chewy and fruity, the lack of oak aging gives it even more fruit presence than many cask-aged efforts. Enjoy it over the next 4-5 years. FRAN KYSELA, 130 Windy Hill Lane, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228; fax (540) 722-9258