The 2016 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur is one of the wines of the vintage, unfurling in the glass with complex aromas of smoky peach, caramelized citrus rind, lemon oil and oystershell. On the palate, it's full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with a glossy attack, an ample but reserved mid-palate and a long, stony finish. It's not quite as dense and structural as Raveneau's example, and it may not be as long lived, but it's part of the same conversation this year.